Balkon - A* lead heading west from Safe and Comfortable etc
Pete Talling
The team headed down to Pitstop, on Pete's only pushing trip of his 3 week expo
(bitter, wot?) But a great trip + lead.
We went to Safe and Comfortable, and then to Lipstick Dipstick traverse/pitch
line. There were 3 leads. The final one is A*
1.Where's the milk: The lead is short distance down Lipstick Dipstick
and comprises steeply upward trending phreatic tube. Mike put on a short handline.
This led up to a cross junction. Left was eventually found to connect to Drunk drivers.
Rightwards is a short climb upwards that needs a few ( less than 5) bolts but no
draft.
2.Drunk drivers: This is an upward phreatic ramp that starts just before
Lipstick Dipstick's first rope. A steep upward ramp leads to a climb over some dodgy perched boulders, and into a chamber with cross rifts. Left is a 10-12m
bolt climb up a wall to a 3m phreatic tube (QMC). Right is a traverse into a large rift that ascends. The traverse will need at least 4-5 bolts, but
interesting (QMC)
3.Custard Cavalry (Michael's Climb): This is the A* lead that is open,
climb rigged and heading west. Very drafty.
The start is an ascending and then descending phreatic tube, located in Safe and
Comfortable, further back towards Pit Stop.
This phreatic tube goes up, across a watershed, and then downwards to a 8m pitch.
The pitch was rigged off two threads and a single bolt.
This leads to a chamber below a drippy aven which has a very small stream. The
stream goes down a descending rift beyond chamber, with a couple of 5m pitches (QMB
- good but wet)
But Michael climbed ~8m up into the continuation of the phreatic tube. This up-pitch
is now left rigged off 2 bolts. The phreatic tube is large, drafty and reaches a
junction. It is very drafty and left ongoing westwards - A* lead.