Base Camp - Searching for an Alm
Mark Shinwell
Idea was to find the alm visible from the stone bridge (and much
of the walk-in) - obvious large grassy patch in a saddle between
two hills. Bearing from the stone bridge was 250degrees.
Initial reckonings were that the alm was Hinterer Sandlingalm,
also known as Pitzingalm. We went first by road to Bad Ischl, and
tried to get access to the alm without a long walk. Unfortunately
the way from near Rettenbachalm (the place which is probably the
source of the two close-together lights visible at night from the
stone bridge) was blocked by a locked barrier at the foot of the
Grabenbach valley. We also tried access from [illegible] but
the road said "residents only" and we went back - would have been a
very long way round anyway.
Went back to Altaussee to try access from the head of the salt
mine road. You drive up the road to a large car park, then continue
(up the Forststrasse) to the prominent left bend visible on the
map, where there is a wooden building on the right and some old
cart rails. (Started walking at 4.30pm.) Path leads off uphill,
after some while crossing a ski run, to arrive at Sandlingalm. Just
above the huts, a path to the right (signed Pitzingalm & marked
with single red stripes on the trees) diverges from the main path
(marked with the usual Austrian markers). Following the new path
downhill through the woods emerges at a grassy area - turning left
and following the path over logs placed across bogs leads to
Pitzingalm, and a junction to the right with another main path.
Now, unfortunately by this time it was obvious that Pitzingalm
was not the correct place, as there was no view of the
Schwarzmooskogel ridge. Arse. Next we walked to Pitzingmoos on the
main path, but this was obviously not the correct place either.
Mark suggested thrashing westwards [No, I don't know why he's
talking about himself in the third person either - editor] in
the trees (actually easy) as it looked more open up there. This
soon hit a much bigger track which we identified on the map,
dropping to a point with a quarried (?) section on a corner. (Again
this is marked on the map.)
Consulting the map, we identified Hütteneckalm as a next
possible target. We actually soon saw this alm, from our newfound
path, and it was immediately obvious that it was the intended
destination. However, it was not obvious as to how to reach it.
Despite it being a relatively small horizontal distance away - and
not very much higher than us - a big stream valley was in the way.
The alternative route would have been to go back to Pitzingalm and
then to Hüttenbachalm via the Lambacherhütte path (201). However,
the latter was too far - it being nearly 6pm - so we decided to
descend down the current path and then thrash directly up a stream
(!) (Mark's idea - Olly) which would then lead directly to
Hütteneckalm. Thankfully common sense got the better of us, and
when we spotted a path on the other (south) side of the stream
which we were descending towards, we followed it - despite the map
showing it ending some way from our destination. However, from that
point it didn't look on the map to be too much further to the Aml -
at least the path would gain us most of the height.
Anyway, we soon reached the end of the path. Two tiny cairns
heralded the way on - a tiny path which continued for what seemed
like ages. Some thrasing through greenery and assorted undergrowth
was required (no bunde tho' !) - but the "path" did eventually pop
us out at the bottom of the Alm at about 7pm or so. We were
knackered. Just as well we hadn't tried climbing up the original
stream valley - looked very steep.
So, there we were on the Alm. Slogged up it to arrive at an area
of felled/burnt trees, with (finally) the elusive view of the
Schwarzmooskogel ridge we had wanted. (Photos on Expo website.)
Looks a long way away and somewhat unremarkably flat - the most
striking thing is the distances between the Nieder
Augst-Eck/Griesskogel/Wildkogel etc, which is revealed far better
from this angle.
Anyway, there we were having walked for ages with no easy way
back to the van and under 2 hours of daylight left. Error! We'd
thought that we were in for an easy walk and thus didn't have any
lights.
The options were two: either to return down the tiny path,
thence go (up!) to Pitzingalm and back the way we had come
originally to that point. Alternatively, we could go on the main
path to the Lambacher Hütte, thence to Vorderer Sandlingalm and
then to Sandlingalm, to rejoin the route we'd come on at the
junction where we had previously turned off to Pitzingalm.
Given the situation we decided on this second option, as it
would keep us on major paths. We headed to the top of Hütteneckalm
to start off. There, we found a couple of huts and a Gasthof(!) -
plus several cars. There were many merry people being amused
outside the Gasthof by a gentleman in some weird garb which I
didn't quite understand. Given the cars, we resolved to return on
another occasion by road if possible - drinking bier up there would
be entertaining adn the place also has FANTASTIC views of the
Dachstein range. Would be well worth photographing, when the sun's
in the right direction (early morning maybe? not sure).
And so we set off, climbing to reach the Lambacherhütte after
quite a lot of path. Took about 50 minutes. Still light. Continued
down to Vorderer Sandlingalm, by which time a sunset was starting -
nice clouds in the sky (see photo on website). From here, the path
was thankfully easy until Sandlingalm. By this time light was
fading and it was hard to see in the trees - in the open a
nearly-full moon helped a lot.
We definitely set off from this Alm on the correct path, but by
now it was dark and Mark's misremembering of the position of a
junction (thought to be later than it was) contributed to us losing
the marked path (Olly was convinced we were still on the correct
path, but Mark wasn't sure). Anyway, we emerged at the top of the
aforementioned skirun instead of halfway up it, as we should have.
Descended the skirun to the correct path, thankfully obvious.
Sometime about now Olly discovered that his digital camera could
give quite a lot of light, so we kept that in reserve - saving
batteries and not disturbing our night vision. Mark rang Base Camp
sometime about now on his mobile, in case someone had come down the
hill during the day and was now worrying about us. However, it
turns out that we'd accidentally taken the keys to the spud hut
with us (precautions against Romany nicking things at Base Camp) -
they were languishing in the van! Turns out that Earl + Frank
had come down the hill & couldn't get into the spud hut.
Since we'd had to take Frank's tent down earlier in the day, as the
gypsies had slashed it and Hilde wanted it moved (the gypsies had
claimed it was in the way of them oving their caravans, when Hilde
asked them to move the caravans so as to accomodate more guests),
then he didn't have anything to sleep in. They didn't want to
disturb Hilde and so went back up the hill - already late, they
were delayed even more by a bottle of squash exploding in Frank's
car and needing to be cleaned up. They ended up walking in the
dark, presumably without lights. Meanwhile, we were also walking in
the dark. Progress was slow but steady - it was hard to see the
rocks, pipes, roots, trees and assorted obstacles along the way
with only a hint of moonlight to guide us.
However, courage prevailed. No wild animals were encountered and
we didn't hurt ourselves. Reached the track near the end of the
walk, where the normal route would be to continue down the hillside
on the other side of the track to the parking space. However this
would have meant more walking down very dark, steep sections and so
we took the main road/track back to the van - a lot further but
safer and easier.
We reached the van at 10.10pm, a little spaced out. Ate a
Tunnocks and then fucked off to Base Camp to get pissed.