Tunnocks - Champagne on Ice

Fri 01 Jul 2016



Nat promised me an “adventure” and so led me down Tunnocks after excessive faff to push a lead he’d last visited in 2014. We descended relatively efficiently and route finding was not much of an issue. The following changes were made to the ‘champagne on ice’ pitch series:
-Replaced sling at 1st pitch head with additional bolt to form proper y-hang
-Improved the traverse at the very end with the addition of a single bolt in the ceiling of the passage at the very bottom of the series.

Beyond this I rigged a P5, although it should be noted that this pitch is probably larger than 5m as an 11m rope was insufficient to reach the bottom. After rigging a pre-bolted traverse we soon arrived at the lead, a drafting hole atop a seemingly easy climb just beyond a >10m hole. The traverse required to get round the hole was somewhat more sketchy than Nat remembered. For a fully comprehensive recreation of the sounds Nat made during the sky hook facilitated bolting of the traverse please consult either Nat or myself. ‘What would you Mother think’ traverse was rigged around the corner too a floor at the base of the climb up to the lead. At this point we turned back due to tiredness, cold and Nat being a big baby. This far the traverse consists of 4 bolts ascending to a further 5th bolt up to a ledge around the corner (backed up with by a spike).

traverse topo

08:00 +1